The Holiday Tree Illuminates for the First Time After the Start of the Conflict

For two years amid the Gaza war, all public celebrations for Christmas were cancelled within the city of Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This place is believed to be where the faithful hold the birth of Jesus occurred.

But, following the recent ceasefire, this sacred city decided that now the festivities would make a comeback, as represented by the lighting of its customary, giant Christmas tree before the ancient Church of the Nativity.

"It's been two difficult years of silence; no holiday, no jobs, no work," states Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here from tourism and tourism was down to zero."

The mayor acknowledges that the idea of resuming celebrations faced some debate, given the ongoing hardship in Gaza – which affects members of the tiny Christian community, who often have family ties in Bethlehem.

"Some may say it's not appropriate and others say it is fitting," the mayor notes. "But deep inside my heart, I felt this constituted the right thing to take because the Christmas season must never be stopped or cancelled. This is the light of hope for us."

A Glimmer of Celebration Returns

Locals – both Christians and Muslims – take photographs in front of the tree hung with gold and red ornaments in Manger Square. They are accompanied by a small number of international visitors.

Brightly coloured lights now decorate the streets and there are signs advertising Christmas bazaars and children's parties.

"We are delighted to have the tree, first of all, and to welcome visitors to Bethlehem and to have the chance to observe the holiday in its authentic spirit," says Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.

"This is where everything began, so this is where we can convey the message to the world about what really Christmas should be about. And now, if Christmas is peaceful, I sincerely hope it will bring a nice message for the entire world."

Economic Hopes and Difficulties

The neighbouring towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to light Christmas trees soon. Local hotels – which have stood mostly vacant for the past two years – are seeing a rise of bookings from Palestinian citizens of Israel along with certain international tourists.

A visitor from Russia, named Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "I think every person should visit at minimum one time during their lifetime," she states.

"I wish a lot of people will return soon because it's sad with few tourists. The sole aspect that's good is that there are no lengthy queues – one can visit and experience more. When I came before you had to wait in a queue for hours at least."

For now, the gift shops dotted around the city have little business, and near the pale walls of the Nativity Church, which date back to the 4th century, tour guides largely stand idle. Before the conflict, it was often crammed with visitors.

"Bethlehem is a city for tourists; absent visitors there is no livelihood," laments a guide named Hamza. "We aspire to have people coming back as in the past: from European nations, the Middle East, the Americas, Latin America and everywhere. We start with lighting the tree, and then we will wait."

The Lingering Economic Impact

In the past two years, joblessness has soared in Bethlehem. Following the deadly attacks led by Hamas on southern Israel in October 2023 which triggered the conflict, many thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank have been prevented from entering Israel and its settlements to work.

At the same time, public servants have been paid only partial salaries from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – which governs areas within the West Bank. The PA depends on tax income gathered by Israel, which it is currently holding – to the tune of $1.76 billion, as reported by the UN's trade and development agency.

Israeli officials state they are retaining these funds because the Authority provides payments to Palestinian prisoners that encourage attacks on Israelis. The authority – facing international pressure to make reforms – claims it has recently changed its welfare system.

A Modest Holiday

The grim economic situation implies that for many Christian Palestinians, despite the fact that there are currently public festivities as well as religious services, it will constitute an austere Christmas.

At the edge of Manger Square, a few customers are waiting to purchase hot balls of falafel from a row of shops.

"We're preparing for Christmas after one of our most challenging times as a Palestinian people and as Christians," says Alaa Salameh, an owner of Afteem, a long-established family restaurant that has witnessed its revenues collapse. He notes that recently numerous families could not even afford falafel – an inexpensive, traditional food.

"Christians will try to celebrate but according to their circumstances," Mr Salameh anticipates. "An individual wishing to bring their children to a festive event or a show or whatever, they lack the money to spend on these celebrations."

Prayers for Peace and Prosperity

Within the grotto at the base of the church, a local woman accompanies a tour group from India, stooping down by a silver star that indicates the location where tradition states Jesus was born and lighting a light nearby.

With tensions still high throughout the area, people in Bethlehem say they are hoping for tranquility – and wishing for tourists to come back to the location where it is believed where Christmas started.

Joe Mosley
Joe Mosley

An avid traveler and photographer with a passion for Italian architecture and natural landscapes, sharing insights from journeys across Europe.